Issue 1 :: Culinary

• 1 tablespoon duck fat or olive oil
• 1/2 –inch slice (2 oz/60g) ventreche, pancetta, bacon, or ham, chopped
• 1 small bunch new spring onions, sliced in half lengthwise
• 1 small bunch aillets (green garlic shoots), cut in half lengthwise

• 1 bunch fresh white or green asparagus (about 1 lb/500g), peeled, trimmed, and cut in thirds
• 1 mint leaf
• sprigs of fresh thyme
• salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1/2 glass white wine or water
• 1 tablespoon butter, optional

1. Heat the duck fat or olive oil in a heavy, covered saute pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook briefly.

2. Add the onions and garlic, sauteing gently until half-cooked. Place the asparagus in the pan. Add mint leaf, a little thyme, and salt and pepper. Cover and cook slowly for ten to fifteen minutes. If the asparagus is fresh, no additional water will need to be added as it gives up its water and makes a delicious sauce at the same time.

3. Add water or wine to the pan and continue cooking without the lid until the asparagus is tender (test with a fork). The wine will marry with the juices to make the sauce.

4. Remove asparagus and onions to a warm serving platter. Reduce the sauce left in the pan by simmering briskly over a high heat until slightly thickened. If you like, stir in butter to enrich the sauce further just as you remove it from the heat. Pour sauce over asparagus and serve hot.

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This soup is a variation on leeks vinaigrette, a popular starter in bistros, cafés—and canal barges. I serve it hot as is or iced down and cold with the addition of a little crème fraîche. The classic combination of leeks and a mustardy vinaigrette is always welcomed at the bistro-galley on the Julia Hoyt. This recipe can be made without the oil for a totally fat-free soup.

• 4 to 6 medium-size leeks
• 2 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped or diced
• 1 large shallot
• 1 bunch fresh chives, chopped
• 2 teaspoons mustard
• 2 tablespoons vinegar
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1. Clean and trim the leeks. Trim off the roots and most of the dark green tops; save the tops for stock or other soups. This gritty job is done nicely under running water or by slicing the leeks into thin rounds first, throwing them into a pot, and running it full of cold water. The turbulence of the running water will help remove any sand and you can then scoop out the clean-sliced leeks as they float on top of the water.

2. Put leeks and potatoes in a 3-quart pot. Cover with 1 quart of water and bring to a boil, then lower to medium heat and cook until tender, about fifteen minutes.

3. Add shallot and most of the chives and simmer five minutes more.

4. Remove from heat. Potatoes and leeks should be soft, and chives will still be bright green. Use a hand mixer to puree the soup in the pan, or use a food mill, blender, or food processor for the job. The potatoes and the bulk of the leeks are enough to thicken the soup without adding cream or eggs.

5. Make the vinaigrette with the mustard, vinegar, and one tablespoon of oil. Salt and pepper to taste. Stir the vinaigrette into the soup. After ladling it into bowls or a tureen, drizzle remaining tablespoon of olive oil on the surface. Garnish with remaining chives.

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