The solemn exterior of the Abbey of Moissac conceals a soaring, light-filled hall of gold-washed geometric frescoes. They are forever linked in my mind with the sweet honeycomb beeswax frames that Bruno and Mireille use on Le Phalene, their floating apiary. It was here, outside Moissac, that I first stopped and visited with this bee-keeping couple, who live and work on their specially converted 30-meter peniche.